A Humble Chef’s Dream Transformed Into the Grand House
The family behind the Grand House restaurant shares their story of how their beloved Amah continued to build the Grand House from a humble kitchen.
Many of today’s restaurants’ charm comes from reinterpreting cuisines by marrying it with another. While that flies with the younger generation, traditional, home-cooked dishes or what the family behind the Grand House calls “Heirloom Dishes” have an undeniable charm. The warmth and flavors found in these dishes are built upon generations of cooking in a family kitchen and such is the appeal found in The Grand House.
An old restaurant built by the family’s great-grandfather, Ting Bieng Toh, it became the go-to place for many Chinese families living in Binondo back in the 60s and 80s whenever they wanted to hold a grand celebration. While the times have caused the restaurant to pivot in many ways, the family behind the restaurant still respects the wish of their great-grandfather: to be a family-friendly restaurant for many celebrations to come.
Preserving the heritage recipes
But today’s families and the food and beverage industry constantly demand novelty — a challenge many veteran restaurateurs and chefs are not strangers to. While some eventually caved to the demand, the Grand House continued to honor and preserve their recipes — a big part of their heritage.
“We believe that some traditional dishes are best enjoyed in their classic form, so we focus on refreshing their presentation instead of altering their essence,” shares the family.
One such dish is their Deconstructed Lumpia — their standout dish with a rich family history. Made with fresh vegetables for lumpia, crushed seaweeds, crushed peanuts, and lettuce, the ingredients for this dish are laid out for the family to assemble. It was a simple joy they wanted to share with other families, the family revealed.
“Every Friday during our childhood, our family would gather at Amah’s home for Lumpia Day, where we’d all come together to wrap our own Fresh Lumpia. These moments of bonding were truly memorable, and we wanted to preserve this tradition by bringing the dish, with its original presentation, to Grand House.”
The Grand House: A Reflection of Home
But what is a family restaurant if not a reflection of the actual family behind it? While they continue their great-grandfather’s legacy, they celebrate also the many memories they’ve made in their ancestral home or the place they lovingly call their “amah’s house.” Although overwhelming for some to see a grand and colorful array of dishes, it’s the interactions and memories made during those meals that the family wants to pass on to future generations.
“Meals are not just a source of nourishment to us. It’s a way to express love, create bonds, and build a sense of community. Sharing meals is a tradition that not only brings joy but also fosters a deep appreciation for family and togetherness,” they reveal.
Thus, the Grand House became their outlet to share their traditions with others. To welcome others into their home and introduce the culture to them — the restaurant has been built on many years of strong filial ties which they share has allowed them to share and be creative with their perspectives.
So when the pandemic hit and family gatherings were considered dangerous, especially for the elderly, the family quickly came up with a plan to help other Chinese families fill the void COVID-19 created. Also known as the Humble Chef, 2020 was the year when a grandmother-granddaughter tandem, Amah and Betrina Co, opened a cloud kitchen to serve cherished dishes to the Fil-Chi community.
“The response was overwhelmingly positive,” shares Humble Chef co-founder and chef Bertina Co. “Customers were sharing heartfelt stories of how our dishes brought back fond memories of time spent with their loved ones, much like our own family experiences. We’re happy to have become a part of that.”
Amah: The Muse of The Grand House
At the center of the Grand House’s success is the family’s beloved amah — or grandmother, specifically from the family’s mother’s side. Her love for cooking had been woven into the restaurant’s offerings, with amah revealing that her passion for the kitchen started at a young age.
“It had always been my dream to share the love I have for food and cooking with others,” amah admits. “My passion for food was inspired by the joy I saw on my family’s faces when they enjoyed a meal I prepared. That joy has driven me to continue sharing my love for food with everyone who visits our restaurant.”
What was once constrained to the family’s home kitchen now serves dozens of Fil-Chi and Chinese families within San Juan, with many of them having roots from the Philippine’s Chinatown — Binondo. The Grand House’s name is no longer attributed just to the celebrations it often hosted but also to the many families who created memories when feasting on their many dishes. Seeing those families and her own family build that kind of rapport continuously fills amah with heartwarming joy.
“I am very happy that my grandchildren are continuing the family tradition and running the restaurant. It brings me great joy and pride to see my grandchildren carrying forward our legacy with such passion and dedication.”
Celebrating with every family and generation
Family restaurants often earn their reputation and keep by having a homey ambiance. The softness and warmth of the lights, and sometimes even the colors chosen would make the vibe more welcoming. Especially when holding a lauriat (or a Grand Chinese feast), it’s a must to design with vibrant colors. But most Chinese restaurants can feel intimidating for smaller and younger families with their large round tables — something that the family running the Grand House felt needed to change.
“We noticed that the traditional Chinese gatherings were slowly losing their appeal,” reveals the family. “So, we designed the restaurant with a more intimate setting, where both small and large groups can feel comfortable and truly enjoy their experience.”
Yet how does one fight against the majority preference (in both aesthetic and cost-benefit-wise) of having something minimalist and industrial-looking? While the Scandinavian look works in coffee shops, it may be too cold for a family restaurant. Thus, to add some warmth, the family behind the Grand House shares their history with others. They pay tribute to their ancestral home’s design, hanging photos of the Grand House’s “golden years” on the wall. It was their way of honoring their heritage, they explain.
“Like we always tell our patrons, each corner of the restaurant has a story to tell. For us, a restaurant is more than just a place to dine — it’s a space where memories are made and people come together. The emotional connections we’ve formed with our customers, especially as they share their own stories from the old Grand House, have been the most rewarding part of this journey.”
Grand House is at 195 Wilson, San Juan, 1500 Metro Manila, also known as the Wilson Park Square Building.
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